No Gary V. did not invent the playoff beard!

The most important thing to remember about this wine is that it is not the Albarino that your friend, neighbor, wife, daughter or anyone else ever mentions in a casual “Hey, try this Albarino, they are really cool wines!”  There is nothing wrong with Martin Codax or Burgans (also made by Martin Codax), they are great values and are the type of wines that you can casually encounter at your neighborhood grocery store.  This, simply, is not.

What this wine is about, what it brings to the table, is a complexity which is usually only mentioned in the great whites of Burgundy and the elegance of the wines from the slate cliffs of Mosel.  This is Albarino at its best.

A Little Background on the Winery:

“This winery, founded in 1973, is currently run by Gerardo Mendez.  Gerardo owns 5 hectares.  Three hectares are over 50 years old and one is over 200 years old.  The vineyards follow organic guidelines avoiding the use of pesticides and non-organic fertilizers.  In addition, Gerardo is a fanatic of indigenous yeasts believing that through their usage the true qualities of his terruño appear.” (De Maison Selections Website)

“Gerardo farms 8 separate plots of Albariño all located in the sub zone of Salnes. This valley’s proximity to the ocean and protection by mountain ranges has gained it the reputation for being the best area for Rias Baixas. Each of the plots are separately fermented and aged on the lees for approximately six months. The blend of these plots is what makes up the Do Ferreiro Albariño.” (De Maison Selections Website)

About the Wine:

According to the information available, the wine is sourced from vineyards that age anywhere from 15-50 years old (They do make the Cepas Vellas which uses 200+ year old vines, which I have not had the pleasure of trying).  Fermented in stainless steel tanks, the fermentation uses 100% natural yeasts.  The winery claims to use organic principles in their winemaking but is not certified.

The first thing you notice when pouring this wine is the color, a beautiful golden-yellow, darker than most of the grocery-store Albarinos.  Based on the depth of color you know you are in for something special.  …and then we get the nose.  I love talking with fans of Alsatian wines, Gruner Veltliners, dry Rieslings, etc. because they get and understand what this wine is screaming at the top of its lungs.  Terruño.  This wine reeks of the granite the roots have so firmly claimed as home and the cool coastal air drenched with the salinity of ocean mist.  White flower and a hint of peach nectar round out a simply stunning bouquet.  I’m not sure I want to drink this wine, it may ruin the illusion.

There is no illusion, there is no magic trick.  The first thing you notice, this wine has weight.  The mouthfeel is similar to many Grand Cru Chablis I have had, if only the Chablis had this acid.  Almost effervescent, there is no sparkle, but the weight and acid combine to constantly confuse your tongue.  The wine screams for shellfish: raw oysters, razor clams, scallops, calamari, or the label recommended octopus.  The continued minerality and salinity of the wine, plus the burst of lemon that accompanies the acid would render any foody or wino speechless for days!

Final Thoughts:

Obviously, I love this wine.  At $25-$30 you must know what you are getting into with an Albarino.  Not everyone will love this wine, thankfully because its fairly limited.  I also have a problem reviewing the wine because I recently learned the importer, De Maison Selections, will no longer be selling to the state of Georgia.  I don’t know any details, just wish this wine would still be around.  We are certainly losing one of the world’s great producers.  If you happen across this wine, the Cepas Vellas, or the Rebisaca, I highly recommend picking up a bottle.  It may change your Albarino life.  Cheers!